A Flower Bulb Bed with a Toothy Garden Edging

January and February seem to be traditional months to start planning spring and summer gardens, and I am no exception.  Right smack in the middle of winter, I am thinking about green growing things.

But first, some deconstruction is required.  This is one of the beds I’ve been needing to revamp.  It’s 28’ long and 2’ deep, flanking the paved driveway.

We moved into this house in late 2011, so it may have been 2012 or ’13 when hubby installed this pine edging to create a raised bed, where I grew green beans for several years

 

then hollyhocks last year.

He also created 2 pine beds in the front yard, but untreated pine only has an 8-10 year life-span, before it rots and becomes ant food.  

At least a handful of years ago, we picked up a load of local free bricks.  It still amazes me that anyone would want to give them away, as construction materials are not inexpensive, but I am grateful every time I see the pile, as they make it possible for me to do my favorite garden bed edging.

Ever since I saw Martha Stewart laying a sawtooth brick edging in her Turkey Hill garden, *many* decades ago, I knew it would be the only edging I would ever use, no matter where we lived.  I used it at our Saugerties, NY house.  I've been using it here at our Cape Cod house.

The first beds to get the edging were the 2 front rose beds.  Then a few years ago, I edged the two semi-circular front-of-house beds.  There’s a lot more edging to do, as time and energy allow!

So this past February I considered planting green beans again, but, decided I needed the garden to require less work and upkeep, so I ordered a selection of spring-planting flower bulbs from Longfield Gardens, knowing I’d be re-working the driveway bed.

As I am a romantic!, I love soft colors in the garden - whites, soft pinks, soft coral, lavender, lilac.  I chose 4 spring to summer flowering bulbs - gladiolus, astilbe, ranunculus, and lily of the valley.  The 3 white tinged with pink begonia bulbs I potted up indoors weeks ago, and set them by a sunny window.

I shopped around online a fair bit, as I always do when purchasing *anything*, and found that Longfield had just what I wanted without breaking the bank.  Bulbs aren’t as inexpensive as seeds, of course, but I don’t always have good luck with flower seeds, so I looked on this as an investment, like buying perennial bushes.  

I did consider small azalea bushes for this bed, but I really wanted a cutting garden, and the front of the house has plenty of perennial bushes, anyway.

I will be covering the bulbs in late autumn with some type of a frost cloth, as the glads and ranunculus aren’t hardy in our zone 7, and I have NO intention of digging them all up every autumn and having to replant them every spring!  

It’s taken several days to get it *almost* done.  I just need to tamp the soil down directly behind the bricks to help secure them in place.  There is a small gap in front of the bricks, between them and the driveway, which hubby will fill with a special sand that hardens, but will still allow for any broken bricks to be replaced, if need be.

I soaked the gladiolus bulbs while I was working on the bricks.  As they’re the tallest of my selection, they are lined up next to the house.  The astilbe are spaced about 20” apart, with the extra glad bulbs interspersed.  The ranunculus (tiny corms, so I didn’t photo them) filled in the front of the bed.

The bed doesn’t get the same amount of sun down its length, so I grouped the lily of the valley at the far end, next to the bit of picket fencing, as it’s shadiest there.

I am hoping these little beauties will be happy in this environment and produce tons of blooms to beautify this side of the house, which is SO grey between the aged cedar siding and the paved driveway, and provide plenty of cut flowers for indoors!

Happy Spring!
Dawn

Everyday Cable Pullover

I’ve begun several sweaters for myself, as I haven’t knit myself a sweater in many years, so it’s past time!

I usually use heavy worsted (aran) or bulky wt. yarns, for a quicker/thicker garment, but for this cable sweater I thought I’d try a dk/worsted wt. yarn, in this case, Brown Sheep Nature Spun Worsted.  At 70 yds to the oz., this yarn is more a DK wt. than a worsted wt.  

It’s such a basic drop-shoulder, wide-ish crew neck design, I thought I’d post it here for free in the one size I knit.  It shouldn’t be too difficult to extrapolate further sizes - only simple math and percentages are needed.  

C = circumference
armhole depth = 25% of C
back neck = 20-30% of C, depending on whether one wants a regular crew neck or a wide one.  I used 25%.
front neck = 15-20% of C, for the same reason as back neck.  I used 17%.

I used size 8 ndls, when I would normally use a size 6 or 7 with a DK wt. yarn.  The resultant fabric is stretchy, and fits my 36” chest very comfortably, and isn’t snug at all.

There are a few sets of photos.  I only had 5 skeins to begin with, which was just enough to knit the sweater with short cuffs and neck edging.

I decided I would prefer longer cuffs, for folding up, and almost a mock turtleneck, so I found one more skein, in the same dyelot, on Ravelry.  I unzipped the bind offs and lengthened the cuff and neck edging ribs.  

But, it turned out that I didn’t like the taller neck ribbing tickling my chin!, so I unzipped the BO again, ripped out the extra rnds, then worked 1 rnd, while dec 9 sts evenly around, then BO, so it would lie flat.

In retrospect, I should have worked the neck opening as a normal crew neck, instead of a wide-ish one, using 20% of C for the back neck, instead of the 25% I used, and 15% for the front neck, instead of the 17% I used, as I have narrow shoulders.

Generally, I prefer v-necks.  If you want to work a v-neck on this sweater, I would make sure the sts are arranged so that a 3-st knit panel is center front, so that when the v-neck shaping begins, there would be 1 knit st for the left and right front edges (to facilitate picking up edging sts) and 1 center front knit st to be put on hold, until the v-neck edging is worked.

Size: S-M

Finished Dimensions
chest: 34” (easily stretches to 38”)
length: 20.5”
sleeve length, with cuff flat: 20”
armhole depth: 8.5”
cuff circ.: 6”
cuff depth: 3”
neck width (with rib): 7.25”
neck depth (with rib): 2.5”
neck rib depth: 1.25”

Yarn
Brown Sheep Nature Spun Worsted, approx. 245 yds/100 gr, 5-6 skeins Victorian Pink

The longer cuffs only needed 11 gr. from the 6th skein.

Needles
24-32” US size 7 (4.5 mm) and 8 (5 mm) circular ndls
16” US size 7 and size 8 circular ndls
Size 7 double pointed ndls
tapestry ndl
stitch marker
cable ndl (optional)

Gauge
18 sts and 26 rows = 4” in St st, and 2 reps of cable patt (18 sts) = 3.5”,with US size 8 (5 mm) ndls or size to give gauge.

Substitute Yarn Weight: DK to worsted

Stitch Pattern (9-st rep)
Rnd 1: (K3, p1, k4, p1) around.
Rnd 2: (K3, p1, 2/2 RC, p1) around. Rnds 3-6: Rep rnd 1.
Rep 6 rnds for patt.

Abbreviations
ssk = slip 2 sts, separately, knit-wise, then knit them together from this position, OR slip the first st as if to purl, then slip the 2nd st as if to knit, then knit them together from this position.

p2tog = purl 2 sts together. This dec, when worked on WS rows, exactly mirrors a ssk, worked on RS rows.

p2togb = purl 2 sts together through their back loops, by inserting the right-hand ndl into the back of the 2nd st, then into the back of the 1st st on the left-hand ndl, then purl them together from this position.

This dec is a little fiddly and is often worked on WS rows, as it exactly mirrors a k2tog, worked on the RS.


2/2RC = 2 over 2 right cable (sometimes called a cross).  Put 2 sts onto cable ndl and hold in back, k2, then knit 2 sts from cable ndl.

OR

Pinch off 4 sts, hold 2 sts in front, while replacing rem 2 sts onto the LH ndl, then return the 2 held sts to the LH ndl and knit them in their new positions.

I never use a cable ndl when crossing small cables, like 2/2RC or 2/2LC, but use whichever method works for you!

Notes
The sweater is knit in the rnd, from the lower edge to the underarms, then the sts are divided in half, and the back and fronts worked flat, separately.  

After seaming the shoulders, the sleeve sts are picked up around the armhole and worked in the rnd.  The neck ribbing is picked up and worked in the rnd.

The lengths of the lower rib, as well as cuff and neck ribs are totally up to you.   I prefer a shorter lower rib, but longer cuff ribs.

Lower Ribbing
With longer size 7 ndls, long tail CO 184 sts.

Work 11 rnds k1, p1 rib = approx. 1.75”, or work to desired rib depth.

Inc Rnd: With longer size 8 ndls (k3, p1, k1, m1, k2, p1) around = 207 sts.

Rnd 2 (Setup Rnd): (K3, p1, k4, p1) around.
Rnd 3: (K3, p1, 2/2 RC, p1) around.
Rnds 4-8: (K3, p1, k4, p1) around.
Rnd 9: (K3, p1, 2/2 RC, p1) around.
Rep last 6 rnds (rnds 4-9) 9x more = approx. 11.5” from CO edge.

Back
On next rnd, patt 103 sts.  Place rem 104 sts onto waste yarn or a spare ndl.
Work back and forth for 56 more rows = approx. 8.5” from underarm, end after finishing a WS row.  (There are 9 cable rows worked plus 3 *even* rnds.)

BO while dec 1 st at center of each cable crossing (to keep edge from flaring).  Use k2tog or ssk on the center 2 cable sts.  I prefer how the ssk dec looks, but the choice is yours.

Front
Place the 104 held sts onto the working ndl, and with RS facing, continue the patt across.  

Work back and forth for 38 more rows = approx. 5.25” from underarm, end after finishing a WS row.  (There are 6 cable rows worked plus 3 *even* rnds.)

Right Front Neck Shaping
Row 1 (RS): On next RS row, patt 34 left front sts, BO next 36 center front sts.  At this point, 34 right front sts rem.

The st rem on the RH ndl, from the last BO st, stays in St st, then ssk, patt rem of row = 33 sts rem.

The left front sts can rem on the longer working ndl or place them onto a holder, waste yarn, or spare ndl, if you find them to be in the way.

Row 2 (WS): Patt to last 3 sts, p2togb, p1 = 32 sts rem.
Row 3 (RS): K1, ssk, patt rem of row = 31 sts rem.
Row 4 (WS): Patt across.
Row 5 (RS): K1, ssk, patt rem of row = 30 sts rem.
Rows 6-13: Rep last 2 rows = 26 sts rem.
Patt even for 5 more rows.
BO while dec 1 st at center of each cable.

Left Front Neck Shaping
Row 2 (WS): With WS facing, join yarn, p1, p2tog, patt across = 33 sts rem..
Row 3 (RS): Patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 = 32 sts rem.
Row 4 (WS): P1, p2tog, patt across = 31 sts rem.
Row 5 (RS): K1, ssk, patt rem of row = 30 sts rem.
Row 6 (WS): Patt across.
Rows 7-14: Rep last 2 rows = 26 sts rem.

Patt even for 4 more rows.
BO while dec 1 st at center of each cable.
Seam shoulders together.

Sleeves
With shorter size 8 ndls, beg at center underarm, pick up and knit 112 sts around armhole, place marker.  The first st of every rnd remains in knit as the center underarm st.

Setup Rnd: K4 (p1, k4, p1, k3) around.
Rnd 2: K2, ssk (p1, 2/2RC, p1, k3) around to last 9 sts, p1, 2/2RC, p1, k1, k2tog = 110 sts.
Rnds 3-5: K3 (p1, k4, p1, k3) around to last 8 sts, p1, k4, p1, k2.
Rnd 6: K1, ssk (p1, k4, p1, k3) around to last 8 sts, p1, k4, p1, k2tog = 108 sts.
Rnd 7: K2 (p1, k4, p1, k3) around to last 7 sts, p1, k4, p1, k1.
Rnd 8: K2 (p1, 2/2RC, p1, k3) around to last 7 sts, p1, 2/2RC, p1, k1.

Continue around, dec 2 sts at underarm on every 4th rnd and crossing the cables on every 6th rnd, until 56 sts rem and sleeve is 17” long, changing to size 8 dpns, when the # of sts dictate.  

18 sts will be decreased before working the 3” long ribbing, so if you desire the body of the sleeve to be longer, you can continue to work around in established cable and dec pattern.

Cuff Setup Rnd: With size 7 dpns, p1, k2tog, p2tog (k1, p2tog, k1, p1, k2tog, p2tog) 5x, end k1, p2tog, k1, p1, k2tog, then p2tog using last st and first st of rnd = 38 sts rem.
Work p1, k1 rib around for either 11 rnds = approx. 1.75, or 20 rnds = approx. 3”.  BO loosely  in rib.

Neck Rib
With 16” size 7 ndls, beg at right shoulder, pick up and knit 1 st at shoulder, 41 sts across back neck, 1 st at left shoulder, 16 sts along left neck edge, 33 sts across front neck, 16 sts along right neck edge = 108 sts.

Work k1, p1 rib for 7 rnds = 1”, or for desired length. On next rnd, dec 9 sts evenly around, as follows: *(k1, p1) 5x, k2tog; rep from *8x more = 99 sts rem.  

BO in rib.

Happy Knitting!
Dawn

The Counterpane Project

I have long wanted to knit a wool counterpane, for our bed. I can't remember exactly when I decided I wanted to make one, but, it could have been after acquiring Mary Walker Phillips' "Knitting Counterpanes", in the '90s.

Or, perhaps even a decade earlier than that, as I had clipped this pattern out of a women's magazine, likely in the very early 80’s, sampled in Bernat Berella “4”.

My Google searches have found some sites selling pdf's of this pattern, dating it to the '60s and '70s.  I was in high school in the 70’s, so the clipping isn’t that old!  The magazine us likely from the early '80s, although memory can be a funny thing.  Alas, the mag's name isn't printed at the bottom of each page, as I cannot find an online reference to the original magazine.

The idea ended up pushed into the back of my mind, and stayed there, for many years, as I got on with life's demands.

Sometimes, when I sit to spin, I would remember the counterpane.  Dreams shouldn't languish, unfulfilled. There's enough of that going around.  This idea will become Real.

And now I finally have an excuse to commit myself to the project – one of my nieces will be getting married in November.  She and her fiancé live in WI, so a warm wool blanket will surely get put to use!  And by starting now, in February, I am allowing for the inevitable Life Interruptions!

The Yarn
bulky wt. singles

The Fiber
Falkland wool top, 27 microns, 56 count (though it feels more like a 58), 3-5” staple length, natural white.

I had considered not spinning the yarn, and, instead, buying a commercial domestic yarn, like Lamb's Pride Bulky, as I do like the fabric LP makes, especially in afghans, but, I figured why not go all out, and make as close to a truly handmade heirloom, as I can, without actually starting from fleece.

Not that I have any qualms about processing raw wool!  Back in the late 80's, I washed, picked, carded, spun and naturally dyed a lot of Romney, Lincoln and yearling mohair – and I have the hand woven and hand hooked rugs to prove it! (If you'd like to see photos, I can put them into a new post.)

But, that great picker and carder, which hubby motorized for me, were sold off decades ago, as we prepared to sell our first house, buy our 2nd house, then restore it to run a B&B.  

The second factor, naturally then, is cost, which will be minimal, as the bump of wool top is already paid for.  The project is all labor, which is why they call these things Labors of Love.  I love wool.  I love to spin.  I love to knit.

Spinning the yarn will also be a great experiment in consistency, and, hence, my skill.  This project will require about 8-10 lbs of yarn, which shouldn't vary by more than a few yds in each 3.5 oz/100 gm skein.

I do find that by spinning just one weight of yarn, almost every day, most of the skeins will have the necessary yardage.  The rest will get added to my bulky wt. Falkland handspun listing on Etsy.

The Wheel
A 1987 Country Craftsman double drive (DD) wheel, using the 10:1 ratio drive whorl. I have always used a thick poly cord on my CC wheels, and this wheel functions perfectly with it, both in the spinning and the plying.

Yes, I know DD wheels are supposed to only use a cotton or linen drive cord.  I suppose if I wanted to sand down the poly finish on the wheel's 2 grooves and the grooves on all the bobbins and drive whorls, then, perhaps a cotton cord would drive the wheel just duckily.  LOL, but, not while there's finish in all the grooves, and I have tried many times.

The Pattern
“Interlocking Ribs” counterpane pattern (KC, pg. 136), with the cable and interlocking ribs borders.

Although I love the “Larnach Castle” and “Grandmother Anderson’s” patterns (also in “Knitting Counterpanes”), the new couple are young, so I thought better of knitting a traditional, perhaps too ‘old-fashioned’ pattern.  The “Interlocking Ribs” pattern should be modern enough.

I began by working the individual rectangles separately, as in the pattern, but soon realized I could work the rectangles in units of 4, as I did in my “Quilt Blocks Cloths” design, so to reduce the amount of sewing up needed.  I just picked up the sts for the next rectangle off the left side of the finished rectangle, until 4 rectangles are knit.  Each unit then just need one short seam sewn.

I don’t yet know how large I will make the blanket, but I’ll post photos when the counterpane is finished!

Onward,
Dawn

How Not to Fall Asleep at Night!

This winter has been rather slow and relaxing aka lazy!, hence the lack of new blog posts or knitting designs.  

I do have several sweaters in the works and one cabled sweater I’ll be posting about soon, but, in general, my get up and go seems to have got up and left!  

I’m blaming it on all the oatmeal I am eating for breakfast every morning, to help lower my slightly high LDL, to get my cardiologist off my back about taking a statin, which I don’t want to do.  I’m also taking plant sterols, guggul, and artichoke leaf to help this process.  I love oatmeal, but it doesn’t seem to provide as much protein as I need to start the day.

Anyway, one thing I’ve managed to do is to begin to think about what *needs* doing in the garden, and what I *want* to do in the garden, this spring.  And these thoughts unfortunately begin when I’m supposed to be sleeping.  This needs to be nipped in the bud – no pun intended!

The best way I know to get things out of my head is to write them down.  I keep notebooks and binders for just about everything – for gardening, knitting projects (knits for self and family), home reno/repair, weaving info, weaving projects, hand spinning info,  decorating ideas, saved recipes, then there’s all the folders for new knitting designs I’m working on.  

In thinking about the garden, as much as I love to grow veg, our small property doesn’t make it easy, not unless I wanted to dig up one side of the front ‘lawn’ (furthest from the septic), which I am not inclined to do, not the least because it would mean hubby would need to make more raised beds, which ‘he’ isn’t inclined to do!  Manual labor is now much harder for him.

All the pine raised beds have finally hit the limit of their lifespan, which tends to be about 8-10 years.  So, the driveway bed and the 2 front tomato beds need to be dismantled, lest the carpenter ants begin to find our house to be their next tasty treat!

So, I am needing to rethink what will be planted in these beds, after the pine is removed and I border the beds with brick, as I’ve done across the rose bed and around the new hydrangea and azalea beds.

I’d also like to simplify my gardening chores, yet still make more headway with beautifying the garden.  To this end, I’ll be planting the driveway bed (which previously grew green beans, then a few hollyhocks), with part-shade bulbs and tubers: Gladiolus, Ranunculus, Astilbe, Lily of The Valley, and a few Begonia tubers for house plants.

https://www.longfield-gardens.com/plantname/Gladiolus-Katherina

https://www.longfield-gardens.com/plantname/Gladiolus-White-Prosperity

https://www.longfield-gardens.com/plantname/Astilbe-Assorted-LANDSCAPE-SIZE-

https://www.longfield-gardens.com/plantname/Begonia-Superba-White

https://www.longfield-gardens.com/plantname/Convallaria-Lily-of-the-Valley-Bulk

I’ve not planted bulbs yet, but how hard can they be!  It will require a small investment, but is easier than buying plants or struggling with seeds every year.  And they should, hopefully, provide tons of blooms for vases.

I’d love to plant raspberry bushes where the tomatoes used to be (as we are eating a LOT of raspberries lately), but that is ill-advised until 5 years have passed since last growing nightshades.  It will only be 3 years this coming spring, BUT perhaps this Bio Fungicide will do the job, and allow the raspberries to grow nicely.  My poor heirloom roses could also use the help, as they all end up leafless by July, despite watering every other day or so, and being fed Espoma Rose-tone .

I also found a few DIY fungicide recipes online.  I saved this one:
Mix 1 TBL vinegar with 1 cup of water
Add 1.5 TBL of baking soda
and 1 TBL of dish soap
and 1 TBL of vegetable oil

Stir this mixture into 1 gallon of water, and spray it on your roses’ foliage.  Reapply every seven to ten days, or after a rainstorm.

I’ve also read that a simple baking soda solution can be poured directly into the soil, which I may also try.

Back to knitting and a piece of fresh-baked spice cake!
Dawn

New Pattern, New Knitting, and New Movie Discoveries

 I've released a new knitting pattern – Midnight Snowfall Hat & Mittens

After I designed the ‘Midnight Snowfall Tea Cozy, I just had to use the color pattern as the main pattern for a set of hats and mittens.

To make the mittens more interesting to knit and wear, I designed them in the Norwegian style, with a smaller palm pattern, striped thumb gussets and thumbs, demarcating side stripes, and angled shaping at the tips.

Instead of the usual Norwegian-style wide patterned cuff, which wears outside one’s sweater or jacket, I used ribbing for the cuffs, as I prefer mitten cuffs to reside inside my sweater or coat. I left the hats pompom-less, but there’s no reason you can’t add them!

The pattern offers a child’s medium and a woman’s medium hat and mittens, knit in widely available Lamb’s Pride Worsted and Lanaloft Worsted. Full-size mitten charts make it easier to follow.  Knit a set for someone you love this winter!

Sized to fit a medium child / medium woman.
The pattern is $6 and is available on Ravelry, Etsy, and Lovecrafts.

More Knitting in the Works

LOL, see a theme here!?

Yup, pinks and lots of them – Victorian Pink Nature Spun Worsted, and Rosado Rose and Orchard Blush Lamb's Pride Worsted.  All destined to be cable sweaters.  My wardrobe is seriously lacking in pink, which I want to pair with charcoal grey pants and the pink plaid Grasshoppers Janey sneakers I bought years ago

I have 3 sweaters in progress (and 2 more in the planning stages) – a stranded Norwegian Fans cardigan, a classic cable v-neck pullover in Victorian Pink Nature Spun Worsted, and a crew neck cardigan version for my granddaughter Evelyn in Orchard Blush Lamb's Pride Worsted, which she can wear with one of the hat/mitten sets I knit for her that uses that color.

I always knit sweaters from the bottom up, as it gives me plenty of time, while I'm knitting, to cogitate about details - whether I want a waist detail or something to accentuate the neckline.  I rarely pre-plan a design.  I design by doing.  It's the same for me when weaving, cooking, or baking.

When it comes to clothing, I prefer florals and classics.  Almost every summer dress I have is a floral!  When it comes to sweaters, I definitely prefer cables and Fair Isles (or Norwegian and Swedish patterns).

No photos yet, though, as I'm just at the beginning of these designs.

New Movie Discoveries

I'm always scanning Prime Video, Pluto, Tubi, and sometimes Crackle, trying to find *good* movies to watch.  I prefer movies and a good series over any other type of television.  While knitting, I find a series is ideal to put on to listen to, as movies end too soon, then I gotta interrupt my work to try to find another one I want to watch.

It's getting harder and harder, though, as the years go by to find good stories, acting, and directing.  All three are needed to make a good movie.  So, I tend to re-watch things I've seen many times before, funny movies like 'Nadine' from 1987 with Jeff Bridges and Kim Basinger, or real classics like Fred & Ginger, or the Margaret Rutherford Miss Marple movies from the early '60's.

This week, though, i discovered 2 good movies – 'Flawless', with Michael Caine and Demi Moore, and 'The Courier', with Benedict Cumberbatch and Rachel Brosnahan (from Mrs. Maisel, a series I LOVE, as a fellow fast-talking and moving New Yorker!).  I've liked Benedict's work since the Sherlock series.  And Sir Michael Caine never seems to do poor work and I love to listen to his Cockney accent!

As for a good series I never tire of (besides Poirot) are all the John Nettles episodes of 'Midsomar Murders'.  I've been knitting a lot, so I'm on my 4th trip through his 13 seasons! 

May your needles fly like the wind, while enjoying something good to watch!
Dawn

New Patterns and Staying Cool!

 New Patterns!

I haven't posted recently, as I've been busy trying to get the patterns written for this pile of mostly knit design samples I began up to 2 years ago!

About 10 days ago, I published 'Quilt Cloths' - an easy to knit set of quilt block inspired face/bath cloths, worked in KnitPicks Dishie cotton yarn.  Dishie is soft, smoothly spun, and easy on the hands, unlike some cotton yarns I have tried in the past.  It is also reasonably priced.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The newest pattern release is this - 'Cable & Rib Tea Cozy', sampled in Brown Sheep
Lanaloft Worsted and Lamb's Pride Worsted.  Pattern has 2-3 cup and 3-4 cup sizes, and sport a braided I-cord cable embellishment!  

The 2-3 cup size only needs about 38 gr of yarn, and the 3-4 cup size needs about 55 gr of yarn, which makes this project a way to use up those small amounts of stash yarns to knit up some gifts for the tea drinkers in your life!

Both patterns are available on Ravelry, Etsy, and Lovecrafts.

Staying Cool

Fall is definitely here, with its decidedly crisp air, which means the holidays start to take over our brains!  I, for one, wish there were more time between Thanksgiving and Christmas.  And I'm sure I'm not the only one wishing this!  I've never liked feeling rushed, and like it less the older I get.  

Winter is supposed to be that slow-down time, for rest and contemplation, but I find that doesn't happen until February at the earliest, after the yearly taxes are prepped to send to the accountant.  And here, on Cape Cod, winter only really begins in late December and lasts until March.  LOL, that doesn't leave a whole lotta rest and relaxation time!

It used to be that I lived for those two all-too-short winter months when I wasn't swamped with responsibilities, as it was the only time I ever slept well.  I always need it cold to sleep - a cool head but a warm body, facilitated by many layers of cotton bedding topped with wool blankets and afghans.  This means that every spring through autumn, sleep was a struggle, and we all now what happens to our health when we don't get good quality sleep.  It takes me down quickly, within a few days.  

Several years ago, I discovered this - a Coolbot. 

It's a contraption that is used by florists and others who need to construct an inexpensive walk-in-fridge.  It overrides the temperature sensor in an AC unit, to allow the AC to cool the space to a much lower temperature than AC's do these days, which, without freon, is only about 62 degrees.

They have an online calculator that shows the size of the AC needed to cool a given room size to one's desired temperature.  For my bedroom of about 10' x 12' x 7.5' high ceiling, the calculator recommends a 10K btu AC unit.  This spec put me off for years!  These windows aren't large enough for a 10K unit.

But this past spring I said to hell with it.  We'll get an 8K AC unit and the Coolbot, because anything lower than 62 degrees is better than nothing and watching my health and functioning fly out the window.  Lo and behold, I can cool my bedroom (in this circa 1947 not well insulated house) to 50 degrees.  I could probably get it colder than that if I wanted, but this is a perfect temp for me, until winter finally settles in, when I sleep with the window open and a twin window fan on.  

So, between the cool room temp every night and the several sleep aids I take, once I fall asleep, I'm out for the entire night.  I cannot tell you what a blessing this is!  Ever since chemo 14 yrs ago, sleep has been difficult at best and almost nonexistent at its worst.  No longer do I need to live for just 2 months of every year - I can actually function decently every day of the year.

If you too struggle with sleep and need it cold in order to sleep well, this gadget is
well worth considering.  Granted, it's not inexpensive, but I'm SO happy we bought it.

Onward!
Dawn

Last of the Grandkids’ Knits

The hat and mittens to go with grandson Alex’s cable sweater are finished and wet-blocked.  As I’ve been eager to get on with my spinning and weaving projects (and heaven knows when I can get to finish the languishing knitting patterns), I knit an easy cap - just 1 x 1 rib throughout, with a fold up cuff via a purl turning ridge.  

For the mittens, I followed the easy Drops/Garnstudio ‘Warmhearted Mittens’ pattern, making adjustments for the gauge difference.  As the mittens are in one color and knit with a singles yarn (Lanaloft Worsted), not stranded like both pairs of Evelyn’s mittens, I knit them snugly, for warmth and better wear. 

I also changed the shaping at the tips, decreasing sts evenly around, instead of just at the sides.  It is how I always shape sock toes, too, much preferring round toes to the side-shaped toes.

Onward!